THE RANDY STULBERG INTERVIEW
April 15th, 2003
Randy Stulberg: Why did you
decide to start doing renegade street shows in Paris?
Ashley Tyler: It began while designing the
Fall 2002 Collection which was about Power. It was merely an experiment
to put the concept, power,
into action by manifesting a fashion show in Paris without a budget,
venue, runway, or invitations. It worked (thanks to my wonderful friends
in Paris.) We re-captured the press as they were exiting out of Yohji
Yamamoto. I never could have done something of the sort in New York.
We made it on to Elsa Klensch’s review of the European shows…..sandwiched
between Marc Jacobs for LV and Tom Ford for YSL. But my 2nd renegade
show the following season was rather chaotic and crowded given the
street location outside La Musee Rodin. We stopped traffic and caused
a stampede of press. Imagine the chaos: We blasted the black-clad fashionista
pack as they were exiting La Musee Rodin after the Yves Saint Laurent
defile w/ a 400kwt generator powering kickin sound, visuals, lights.....while
ballet dancers, models & a big white bird weaved surrealistically
through the masses. But I have to admit that the concept and details
of the collection were rather lost in the midst of the chaos. This
last renegade show opened my mind to the possibility of finding a financial
backer/sponsor, a proper venue, and maybe even a little runway too.
So we’ll see what I do next season…..
RS: What are you working on right now?
AT: I'm juggling several projects at the moment:
I’m combing through volumes of my old journals selecting bits
of poetry to combine w/ my recent visual collaborations in order to
produce images that not only stimulate the viewer visually but emotionally
and intellectually as well. Simultaneously, I'm designing my 5th collection
in The Chakra Series: The Knowledge Collection, which I will show in
Paris this summer during the Haute Couture Collections. In addition,
I’m transitioning my Spyne line into classic core pieces made
out of only organic textiles which I hope will help promote the awareness
of environmentally kind methods of textile & clothing manufacturing
in the fashion industry: materials and manufacturing strategies that
are environmentally responsible & non-toxic to the earth.
RS: Who/what inspires you?
AT: the extremes: hardcore melodies, the birds, the trees, the
streets, the streams, the concrete, the rocks, & the dirt of the
earth.....
RS: Do you have a sense of humor in your work?
AT: I tend to me more satirical than humorous. For instance, the
'public branding ceremony' was a parody of the fashion industry's over-zealous
need to plaster everything w/ logos (i.e. brand marketing.) So I just
took the concept to the literal extreme & branded each of my models
w/ an actual cattle branding iron.
But the intention wasn't to 'take the piss' but to 'effectual-ize'
the concept which related to the rather ironic theme of power branding:
the human desire to acquire identity & status through the consumption
and regal-ic display of symbols. I find that fascinating.
RS: Would you ever give up your dark side-how does it affect your work?
AT: I’ll never give up my dark side. My dark side is what
cyclically throws me into the depths of rebellion; which in turn instigates
change
and progress: a revolution against complacent culture.
RS: Are you modern?
AT: You’d have to define ‘modern’ right here & now
in order for me to answer. For the relative axis of modernity is always
shifting which it most likely will by the time this interview is published.
RS: What music are you listening to?
AT: For the last decade I had been listening to only integral electronic
music (from Kraftwerk to the Orb, the Underworld, and Richie Hawtin)
. Then in 2000, given my pre-adolescent roots (Acid House, New Order,
the Clash, Suicidal Tendencies, Violent Femmes, SigueSigueSputnik,
Fuzzbox, Adam Ant and the Dead Milkmen) I was easily seduced by, Fischerspooner,
Adult, Felix da Housecat, & all that Kitten and the Hacker shit.
But when they became so super trendy I had to banish their cd’s.
After a two year banishment, I’ve started playing them again
in my studio. I can’t help it. And I’m still addicted to
superhot Peaches, Chics on Speed and whatever dfa/lcd I can get my
hands; all three bands conjure up images in my ear of the bands I loved & listened
to alone in my bedroom when I was thirteen. Also I can't get enough
of Patti Smith, Cat Power, The Smiths, and Nick Drake, mixed in with
a little Billy Holiday and classic Donna Summer. Love to Love You Baby.
RS: What are you reading right now?
AT: I’m reading several books simultaneously depending on what
mood I’m in:
1. The Eden Express by Mark Vonnegut which is about a man’s dance
w/ insanity.
2. The Shifting Realities of Philip K. Dick: Selected Literary and
Philospophical Writings
3. Dreaming the Ways of Council by Ohky Simine Forest. written by a
female shaman regarding the organic tendencies of the unseen.
4. Jihad Vs. McWorld by Benjamin R. Barber
RS: What are your favorite books?
AT: My recommended reading list would go a little something like
this:
1. Power Politics by Arundhati Roy (definitely broadening to any mind
that grew up inside capitalism)
2. Lila by Robert Persig
3. Perennial Philosophy by Aldous Huxley
4. anything by Philip K. Dick, esp. the short stories
RS: What is the best compliment you have ever received?
AT: Recently, a girl who purchased a few of my pieces actually
called my studio and left a message saying that she felt so beautiful
in my
clothes that she couldn’t take them off
RS:What offends you?
AT: I‘m offended when people fail to recognize & respect
true beauty esp. when I witness the exaltation of bullshit: the classic ‘emperor’s
new clothes’ spoof. But then again, beauty is in the eye of the
beholder.
RS: What makes you cry?
AT: The thought of a flower in full bloom dying on the vine
makes me cry from time to time. Seriously…..okay, it’s
a metaphor.
RS: What is your favorite planet?
AT: Jupiter
RS: Would Aliens wear your clothes?
AT: Aliens do wear my clothes.
RS: What does the universe smell like?
AT: Basil & Sashimi
RS: How would you like to be remembered?
AT: a goddess of light
ASHLEY TYLER